|
| Working
From A Chart |
|
|
|
|
The ability to
work from a chart will greatly increase the number of designs
available to you. So, if you've never done so before or
just need a little refresher, follow the simple steps
below.
The project
I've chosen to illustrate this process is a Nasturtium Eyeglass
Case by Barbara Baatz. This design appeared in Issue 7 of Needlepoint
Gold magazine. I've added as many pictures as possible to
make things clearer.
A project of
this size can be completed in a weekend. That's the good news.
The bad news is that the richness of the design requires 19
colors, most of which use only a small portion of a skein
of wool. With two colors using more than a single skein, you'll
need 21 skeins of wool. Click here
to view the colors. For
a chronic stitcher like myself, this is no problem as I already
have a considerable stash of wool left over from other projects.
So consider buying the wool as an investment in future projects.
|
|
|
|
Reading a
Chart |
|
A chart has
two components: the chart itself and a color key. The
chart is a diagram consisting of a grid of small squares, each
containing a symbol or color indicating where to place the
stitches. The chart usually contains darker grid lines every
ten squares to make counting easier.
The color
key.
|
|
|
| Gathering
the Materials |
|
The materials required are the
same as for any needlepoint project: canvas, wool, a needle and
scissors.
Canvas:
The pattern calls for a piece of 12-count canvas measuring 10 by
6-1/2 inches. As the completed design area is 7 by 4 inches,
this leaves an unstitched border of between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2
inches. This
is a little skimpy for my taste but I'll work according to the
instructions. I usually work on a frame and I could
probably tack the canvas to a fixed frame. I also like a
little extra for the stretching (see below). Canvas
can be purchased at your
local needlework store or online. I'm using a small
piece of canvas left over from another project. The canvas must
be 12-count in order that the stitched area be the correct size
for an eyeglass case. The
instructions call for 'single' canvas. I'm using interlock -
personal preference. Wool:
The design has been charted in both Paterna(yan) Persian yarn
and Anchor tapestry yarn. The sample was stitched in
Paterna. Persian
yarn is a 3-stranded yarn and the sample was stitched using only
two strands. The stranding makes Persian yarn very
versatile. You can use 3 strands on 10-count, 2 strands on
12-count and 14-count and 1 strand on 18-count. You need to take
a little extra care that the strands lie flat during stitching. Tapestry
yarn seems to give a better finish but should only be used on
12-count or 14-count mono or 10-count penelope (double canvas).
I'll be using Anchor tapestry yarn. I
should mention here that there is no exact correlation between
the colors offered by different manufacturers. Often a
color exists in Paternayan that is missing from the Anchor palette
and vice versa. So, substitutions are often 'as close as
possible'. Needle:
The instructions call for a size 20 tapestry needle. Tapestry
needles are round ended so as not to split the canvas or the
wool. Scissors:
Small, sharp scissors are a necessity for all stitchers.
|
|
Return
to Index |
|
|
Preparing
to Stitch |
|
Before I
stitch, I usually attach the canvas to a frame. This canvas is
too small - probably to make it easier to handle. It's also a
good idea to use masking tape to seal the edges of the
canvas. This prevents the canvas from unraveling and the
wool from catching on the raw edge.
Before I start
to stitch, I use a tape measure and permanent marker to mark the
centre of the canvas. The centre is always marked on the chart
and this is where I start stitching. This positions the design
on the canvas and eliminates 'little errors' like the time I ran
out of room at an edge and had to eliminate a dozen rows on the
side of a piece!!! Well, live and learn.
Find a
comfortable, well lit place to stitch - and enjoy.
|
|
Return
to Index |
| Stitching |
|
Starting in the centre of the
design, thread your needle with that color and start to stitch.
With a design
of this size, the pattern emerges quickly from the canvas. I
love this part - watching the design emerge.
|
|
By
the end of the first evening, this is what I've accomplished.
It doesn't seem like much but I always find that gathering the
materials, centering the design and the other little
pre-stitching chores take up far more time than I'd planned.
|
|
This is the
design half completed, at the end of the second evening.
Most of the background is done and you can see the design
taking shape.
You can also
see the three blues. This adds a certain richness to the
design but you could easily eliminate the darker and lighter
blue and save yourself a couple of dollars. Similarly with the
greens. |
This is
finished design ready to be stretched. The distortion in the
canvas is due to the fact that all the stitches are slanted in
the same direction (up to the right). This 'squeezes'
the canvas and makes the completed design shorter from lower
left to upper right and longer from upper left to lower
right.
This
distortion can be avoided by working a canvas on a frame or
stitching slightly looser. Of course, every time I'm tense or
in a hurry I pull my stitches.
This is
exactly the reason why you stretch a canvas.
|
|
Return
to index |
| Stretching
the Finished Canvas |
|
Stretching
a canvas returns it to its original shape before finishing. This
is possible because canvas is treated with some sort of sizing
to retain it's shape when dry. By wetting the canvas, you
can reshape it. Secondly, wool fibers have a memory which
can also be reshaped. In addition, tapestry yarns are
colorfast - the color will not 'bleed' when wet.
Warning:
Many fibers are NOT colorfast i.e. 'over dyed' threads.
Please check with your supplier when you're purchasing threads
and save yourself some agony.
To stretch a
canvas, you'll need a flat piece of wood (I'm using a piece of
single-sided plywood), a staple gun and a water sprayer.
 The
first step in blocking is to secure the longest side of the
canvas. I use the edge of the board as my guide.
Next I
thoroughly wet the canvas using my sprayer and
water.
I start
stretching the canvas back into it's original rectangular shape,
securing it with staples as I work. It seems to be easier
to pull the centre of the design square and then deal with
the rest.
This is rather
fiddly work and if you find that you need to move staples, just
pop out the old staple with a flat headed screwdriver.
When you're
happy with it, leave it a couple of days to dry. This is
really important! The canvas and wool must be completely
dry before you remove the staples. Otherwise, it will
return to the distorted shape.
 I
always leave it at least 3 days. This may seem to be an
inordinate amount of time, but I think it allows the wool to
'set' in it's new shape.
This is the
stretched canvas drying. You can see it looks almost
perfectly squared.
Note: I use a
small flat head screwdriver to remove the staples from the
stretched piece.
|
|
| Return
to index |
| Finishing
(sewing) the Case |
|
 To
finish the eyeglass case, trim the stretched canvas leaving
approximately 3/8" of unstitched canvas on each side. Cut
one piece of your backing fabric and two pieces of lining,
each the size of your trimmed canvas.
NOTE: I've
chosen navy wool suiting material for the back of the
case. Gold lining will ensure that you can distinguish
the pieces in these photographs. |
|
 With the right sides
together, pin one piece of lining to your canvas. Sew only the
seam at the top of the eyeglass case (the seam at the opening
of the case). Double stitch the seam and iron this seam
open. Again with right sides facing, pin the other piece
of lining to your backing fabric. Again sew only the top seam
(at the opening of the case) double stitching the seam.
Trim
edges to a quarter of an inch and press open. Note: double
stitching ensures that the canvas will not unravel. At this
point I mark a stitching line on the lining by tracing the
outline of the eyeglass case of extending the seam using a
ruler. |
|
Again with
right sides together,
pin pieces together taking extra care to match the seams.
Double stitch the two sides and the bottom of your canvas,
leaving the bottom of the lining open (at left). Trim
seams to a quarter inch and pull the entire piece inside out.
Press.
|
|
Fold the bottom
edge (at left) of the lining and press and then sew
closed. Push the lining inside the case and tack with a
couple of small stitches to the bottom of the case.
You're done! Pat
yourself on the back and think about the $50 or so that you
could have paid someone to do this! So here's the finished
case:
|
|
| Return
to index |
|
|
| Home |
|
